Dolce & Gabbana goes for baroque with opulent Milan show

There was mood of opulence in Milan on Sunday, as fashion powerhouse Dolce & Gabbana showcased its autumn/winter "baroque romanticism" collection. Candelabra chandeliers covered in roses and a gilt-framed mirror behind the runway set the scene for stunning golden embroideries, delicate lace dresses, capes of various proportions, rich velvets, and chintzy tapestry-style patterns.

This was Dolce & Gabbana's first womenswear collection since they closed their secondary line, D&G, last year, and was an appropriately grown-up affair. There was only one leopard cape-coat and one logo top, and even though some lengths were short, this was not a show about being obviously sexy.

The inspiration was "the tradition of Sicilian baroque". Translation: A Master Class in Sicilian Chic. The clothes were the absolute top-end of the luxury market with intricate workmanship and expensive detailing. The gold embroidery on capes, coats, skirts and boots was designed to "recall baroque mirrors and frames". Prints of angels and cherubs and patterns inspired by "dining room tapestries" also featured.

Helen Mirren attended the event in a butterfly and floral print dress with lace brocade jacket and a leopard print bag. She described the show as "very powerful, masterful and decadent".

For accessories, there were tapestry boots, jewel headbands, elaborately sculpted high-heels, and dramatic dangling earrings, some with the cherub motif. There were also miniature handbags, a trend for autumn also seen at Prada.

Off the catwalk, reports circulated over the weekend about the top design job at Yves Saint Laurent.

Hedi Slimane, who has a cult following, is poised to replace Stefano Pilati at the Parisian house, says insiders' bible Womenswear Daily. Should this be confirmed, it would be the second comeback in a week, following Jil Sander's return to head the house she founded.

Slimane left Dior Homme at the height of his success in 2007, having pushed a skinny, androgynous silhouette in men's fashion that was greatly influential. During the 1990s, he worked for YSL, though was never known for womenswear. Since his exit, he has established himself as a successful fashion photographer.

Pilati has been creative director of YSL since 2004The weekend saw Simons deliver his final collection for Jil Sander, greeted with a standing ovation. It added to speculation the Belgian could be a replacement for John Galliano at Christian Dior.